“Mommy, when are we going to the cabin?” These words are music to my ears as they evoke memories of a slower time in our lives that we carve out each year.
No, we do not own a whimsical cabin on a remote lake somewhere, although that would be nice, too. Instead, we return, this year for the 7th spring break in a row, to Pere Marquette Lodge at the state park in Illinois. For at least four days every spring, we commit to spotty wi-fi, life-sized chess, indoor swimming, and lots of family game time. I hate to give away our secret, but really everyone deserves this kind of life once in a while.
While you can reach Pere Marquette from St. Louis via the Clark Bridge (Hwy 270-Hwy 367-Hwy 67) and going through Alton, which takes just over an hour, our favorite way to get there is a little longer, but includes two ferry rides. We drive through New Town to get to the Golden Eagle ferry, which takes us across the Mississippi to a beautiful drive through Brussels, Illinois. We get 20 minutes to soak in the rolling farmland and various orchards on our way to the Brussels Ferry. We have yet to stop on the Winery on this road, but maybe we’ll do that this year. Our second ferry ride takes us to the Great River Road, and a 10 minute drive north is all it takes to find our retreat.
Pere Marquette Lodge has 72 traditional guest rooms in the main building. “Our” cabins are across a grassy expanse from the lodge and are a little more rustic. We like the variety of sleeping spaces (bunk beds, queen/king bed, and sofa bed in each) and the sitting area in the cabins, and the kids love that we can also get adjoining cabins with their cousins. It was really nice when the kids were younger and we would put them to bed in one room and stay up in the other to play cards.
Hours in the pool and hot tub while the adults take breaks to play Phase 10 and indulge in snacks on the deck. We follow this with dinner in the restaurant, which boasts some delicious fried chicken that guests can get family style, as well as several other delicious options, including kids meals. And if you don’t bring your own drinks, or don’t pack enough, the Mary Michelle winery is on site to meet those needs.
We do venture out of the lodge for a few things. 20 minutes south is Grafton, home to several wineries and two of our favorite restaurants: The Fin Inn and the Grafton Oyster Bar. Both will accommodate large parties (even with many kids) and both boast delicious menus (Fried Clams! Oysters Rockefeller!) and really great service. Nobody has been bothered by the fact that we’ve arrived with 6 adults and 8 kids, which I find really amazing, or just plain crazy.
Drive south a little further and just before Alton you can stop and see the painted Piasa bird high up on the rock face, and then keep on until you reach Fast Eddie’s (remember, 21+ only).
What can you do besides eat? It depends on the time of year. It’s always a little chilly when we go in March, so aside from hiking in the state park, we’ve explored the National Great Rivers Museum at the Melvin Price Locks and Dam and the Lewis and Clark State Historic Site, both south of Alton and the Audubon Center at Riverlands, in West Alton. We’ve driven 20 minutes to Godfrey to go to Josephine’s Tea Room. In warmer weather, we’d definitely fish on the Mississippi, bike the Great River Road, or go horseback riding at the Pere Marquette Stables.
We are content, though, to stay right on site and let the kids run around the lodge, read in the chairs by the windows, run up and down the big, fun hill on the front lawn, and finish the night by a fire pit (bring your own wood).
I look forward to this recharge every year. If you find yourself with a free weekend or the need to get away just so you can reset, head to “the cabin.”
